Cloning My Clothes.

This is the (very worn-in) linen jacket that I wanted to remake!

As the summer roles in, my attention is drawn to my sewing projects, so when the idea of cloning my clothes came up my sewing machine gave me a nudge! Today, I wanted to share a joyful Saturday that allowed me to learn so much that will bless my wardrobe, as well as enjoy a lot of fun with friends.

I remember getting my first sewing machine when I was 8 years old at Christmas; a small singer that could go forward and backwards, as well as a wonderful zigzag stitch. Christmas day was spent going up and down lines that mum had drawn onto cotton, but by boxing day she had me perfecting circles, which I would appreciate later in life. My dolls wore scrappy patch clothes, and I learned how to do darts around my teddy, so that by the time I hit my teenage years I was happy to faff about and make my own clothes with a preference towards cotton and linen. 

Patterns do not frighten me, and I have drafted my own blocks, but I have never cloned a piece of clothing from a store to create a pattern from it so that I could make more versions. So when Helen from Dot.N.Cross mentioned she was popping a Saturday workshop on to teach the cloning technique, I jumped at it; the idea of being able to create the project I had been thinking of for about a year was in danger of actually happening! 

Check Out Helen's Website!

One of the last gifts mum had given me was a blue linen shirt jacket from Seasalt, and I have been wanting to re-make it and hack it into a shower-proof jacket. Naively, I had thought that cloning my clothes would mean that I had to unpick the original, meaning that I would be unable to wear it again. This was the main reason why I had steered clear of the practice, as I didn’t want to lose mum’s gift. When I mentioned this mental road block, the reaction was a giggle and a reassurance, making me feel a lot easier about embarking on the workshop. 

Jess had such a giggle with her gathered shirt

Last Saturday morning found myself, Laura (from Thread Pegs), and Jess (from Beyond Making) beetling down to Cast in Helston to meet two other makers for Helen’s class. It was fun to be with friends as we caught up and chatted about our ideas about our current sewing (and knitting) projects in the car before we got there. The clothes we had brought to clone were very different! Laura had brought along a swimsuit that had shorts attached to the waistline (with pockets!), and Jess had arrived with a hand made shirt from the 80’s; a cotton lawn with pale pink roses, balloon sleeves and a gathered back.

Helen has been a pattern cutter for the big London fashion designers, and has done her fair share of fashion weeks and seasons. Now she teaches classes and one-to-one tutorials, bringing an attention to detail and professionalism that is second to none, (as well as the best chocolate chip cookies). With five very different clothes being hauled out of bags around the workshop and being laid on the big cutting tables, Helen became very excited with how each item could teach us different skills about pattern cutting and dressmaking.

Pins, a pattern master, pins, a tracing wheel, and more pins!

The real trick with cloning patterns is pinning, pinning, and pinning some more, as well as finding your grainline. It surprised me how long it took to make sure my jacket was pinned on to the pattern paper in a way that I could trust before I marked it all out. For parts of the pattern that I couldn’t halve accurately down the centre, I had to find the grainline and pin that to a line of dots on the paper, from that point I could anchor the rest of the pattern down so that I could use the tracing wheel. This was especially needed for my saddle shoulder pieces, as well as my collar.

Pinning my saddle shoulder down after finding a grainline and anchoring the piece.

With each part of the patterns being drawn up, Helen would occasionally stop us to show how to make measurements for parts we couldn't unpick, which was great for the gathers at the back of Jess’s shirt. When it came to the overly stretched elastic on Laura’s swimsuit, a little bit of negative ease was popped into the equation. When it came to my split cuffs, we decided to trace the pattern as one sleeve piece, and then add the option for a split sleeve on the paper, so I could do either. 

After we had marked it all out, Helen taught us how to true-up our patterns to make sure that they all worked together. Personally, I love the ‘walking’ technique, where I could walk through my pattern piece by piece as I got a feel for the 3-D shapes and how I was going to end up constructing it. All I have to do is remember to add the seam allowance! 

Laura had a great time drafting her new swimsuit

I found the whole day eye opening, and although I have very few shop-made clothes now, I can see how my wardrobe will benefit in the future. Finding old dresses in the thrift shop that I like the style of, but don’t like the fabric, can now be taken home and cloned before being gifted or re-donated. Is that wasteful? I don’t think so in the grand scheme of things, as the amount of times it would happen is small. 

Apart from anything, it was a day of laughter, friendship, and memories, which is the best combination for any day! The lunch at Cast was absolutely delicious, and to spend time chatting to the other two makers who joined us was great; I learned a lot about reenactment costume making, which I have always admired, but have never known anyone to chat about it. I am so thankful to Helen for inviting us along, making space for us to learn more about the hobby we love which enables us to clothe our bodies, and for teaching us so well. I am very tempted to join her autumn course so that I can make my own Dress Block, as the one I have no longer works for my post 40 body. 

No doubt I shall be updating you with plans for my sewing wardrobe soon as we head into summer, and my jacket will be sure to get a lot of my attention!

Until then, may your needles always bring you joy, and your frogging be rare, 

Jenny and Finchley xx

Mr Finchley is enjoying the Cornish sun this month.

A Cornish Knitting And Rambling Retreat, With Raw Wool.

After a spring thunderstorm, this beautiful rainbow arched over the bay as I walked home last Friday.

As I walked down to Knit Group today, I felt the first true warmth of spring sun on my face, whilst on Saturday I met with a wonderful bunch of knitters who braved the blustery showers to walk along the coastal paths to knit on the beach. In short, Spring Time has truly arrived in Cornwall, and one of the best ways to celebrate was to hang out with the gang who were enjoying the Cornish knitting and rambling retreat with The Raw Wool Company.

Knitting retreats have often passed me by, as in truth, I can’t sit and knit all day. I am too fidgety, and the most amount of time I would knit in a weekend is a couple of hours a day. When I enjoy my days away from the writing desk, I make plans to meet friends for walks and beach visits, often getting out my knitting projects when we arrive at the local pub for chips and a pint. So when Anton started telling me about his Raw Wool Retreat ideas last spring, my ears pricked up; meeting new knitting friends over a weekend of coastal walks, pub knitting and trips to see the sheep that produce his yarn?! Sign me up! 

Anton and his very bouncy Spaniel, Moose, enjoying the spring weather.

Anton has a passion for connecting people with the nature that surrounds us here in West Cornwall, and it is the inspiration for both his knitting patterns for Raw Wool, as well as his personal knits (I have often seen his colour choices mimic the country that surrounds us). So it was with no surprise at all that his dream knitting retreat would be creating a space for people to be welcomed in the stunning surroundings of the Bosveal National Trust home on the banks of the Helford Passage. Just 20 minutes west of Falmouth and hosted over three days, knitters would be able to visit the farm where his flok of sheep are shepherded, enjoy lunch in the iconic Ship Inn at Porthleven, and learn about the history and design of the Gansey sweater as they created their own versions. Between walking around Durgan, knitting by the living room fire, and pottering down to the small coves on the banks of the river to cast on a new project on the beach, I knew that it was going to be a retreat to remember. It was so very Anton, and therefore so very Raw Wool! 

Braving the weather as we climbed the hills by Bosveal House, West Cornwall.

After putting all his plans in place, with a healthy dose of anticipation, and the support from Jonathan Days, the retreats were launched in October of last year. The first was such a success (and just a week after my move down here), that the March dates were published soon after, and I was delighted that I was able to join the group for part of it this past Saturday. 

It was fantastic to meet so many passionate knitters from all over the globe. Each brought their own love of natural fibres, joyful patterns, and vast knowledge on the subject of knitting lore. I learned how one knitter’s passion for bird watching inspired their own Gansey pattern, with the seed and bar stitches representing the steps they walked down during the weekend to watch the birds take flight. An American woman told me stories of how she and her husband took their motorbikes around Colorado as they sought out new yarns, as well as her passion for the country of Wales. The stories of how the English coast brought comfort to all of them through childhood memories, and their later life adventures, my feelings of happienss to be living here were renewed.

As we walked up the hill as the wind blustered around us, the view of the river flowing into the sea was simply breathtaking; waves chasing themselves up the Helford. After catching our breath and taking a walk around the 400 year old church, we headed east towards Mawnan. With the rain and sea spray dancing through the air, we made time to sit on the beach and knit a few stitches whilst Moose, Anton’s spaniel, ran rings around us. (I swear that dog did more than double the miles we completed that day!)

After we headed back to the house for a wonderful cream tea, we sat down to knit next to the fire. I cast on the Kintra Sweater that I have been gauge swatching for the past couple of weeks; the perfect sweater for late spring and early summer when the wind can still be a little chilly in the evenings. Listening to the chatter whilst the scones were baking in the kitchen, I felt the tension I had been holding over the past week simply slip away. To be warm, comfortable, surrounded by the gentle peace that knitting offers us, after a stunning walk, is the best way to spend my day. 

As I drove home, awash with tea, I knew that I had to arrange my diary to book in for the full retreat this coming autumn. Although I had only been there for a few hours, it felt as if I had enjoyed a magical time of rest and relaxation that I simply would not have had at home. Looking at the cast-on I did for the collar of the Kintra, I now also know that I will need to take my simplest stocking stitch projects, as I still have not mastered the art of chatting and following a pattern; my rib is wonky and my stitch count is off! 

I think there is a knitting retreat out there for everyone. From spa based knitting time in Bath, cruises around the Shetlands, and ranch style dying weekends in the Rockies, there is an experience to suit you and your textile interests. I am blessed not only to be able to be here in Cornwall and take full advantage of Anton’s friendship over coffee time at the Falmouth Bookseller on a regular basis, but also to witness his love of the countryside that embraces us whilst he shares it with us.

For myself, I think my ideas around textile retreats has changed from one of not quite knowing why I would go on one, to one of curiosity. I would like to explore natural dying, spinning, quilting, and different sewing techniques, and I think retreats may be a great way for me to gently travel and learn from experts in a relaxed environment. We shall see where I go next, but one thing is for sure, in the autumn you will find me back at the Helford, with Moose running amuck, surrounded by welcoming and warm-heated knitters. 

Raw Wool's beautiful mini yarns, and their wooden gauge rule.

The Joy Of Small Knitting Festivals.

Finchley, keeping me cozy with my now abandoned Beechmast, whilst I had flu.

‘Knitting Flu’ has to be one of the worst kinds of miasmas. Like a cloud, it creeped into my home, hanging low in my living room for the best part of two months. It sucked the joy out of my projects, so much so, I simply walked past my yarn basket without thought. 

It started to emanate when I had actual flu over Christmas as I tried to cast on the ‘Beechmast Pullover’ in the John Arbon yarn ‘Fallen Leaf’; a combination that I had been looking forward to since October. In fairness, I couldn’t even make a cup of tea at the time, so why I thought I could follow a cable pattern is now beyond me. But even the second attempt ended in catastrophe and I had to call my lovely friend, Sarah, and fog it with her on the phone as I was so despondent.

I also hadn’t been to my regular knitting group for a few weeks due to work. (I’m not going to lie; a Tuesday morning knitting group from 10:30 - 12:30 kind of kills a working day!) The regular encouragement that I receive from the kind hearted knitters at Stitches and Cream have helped me a lot over the winter, and not seeing them was felt. 

Spring Daffs.

All of this to say that I wasn’t really in the mood to go to YAFF, the Kernow Yarn And Fibre Festival, when Bron invited me to go with her, but looking back at it now, I am so pleased that I did.

I confess that until I moved to Cornwall, I had not heard of this local festival. YAFF is co-run by Gorgeous Yarns, who are based in Helston, and a wonderful team who want to highlight the talented dyers, spinners, weavers and felters in the South West of England, and they gather at The Royal Cornwall Showground in Wadebridge, (between Plozeath and Newque). It is a joy of a small knitting festival, and I am so pleased that I found it.

Sunday was what I like to call a ‘proper Spring day’. Daffodils bobbed their heads in the breeze, and clouds were skudding over a blue sky. As I drove past the farms, the first vibrant greens in the fields could be seen, lighting up the horizon that had been brown the week before. As I steered into the show-ground, I could see the cheery yellow flags guiding us in, and I was happily surprised to see how busy it was in the parking lot, as well as the presence of The Cornish Coffee Van!

Surprisingly, Sarah had got in touch with me the evening before to say that Yarn Food would be at the festival, and I happily offered to be the go-between for them both as Sarah was looking forward to welcoming the yarn wash into her shop; The Knit Lounge. I really had not understood Sarah’s enthusiasm for these particular soap suds until I met Helene and Oliver, and then it all fell into place. 

The couple have been in the knitting industry for years, and had noticed that wool soaps stripped the yarn of its natural property; Lanolin. Yarn Food incorporates this multi-purpose natural product, adding it back into the wool with each wash. As you don’t need to rinse your knitting after you have washed it, the fibres are not overly agitated. (They also offer a version for plant fibres, adding cotton milk to help protect them as well.) The blocking spray is also a unique development for both steam blocking, as well as a way to refresh for your knits between washes. To see a couple work so well together, and to help celebrate their first day of trading was such a joy! I can’t wait to get my own sweaters dunked into the lavender wash, and my socks into the tea-tree version. 

I then met up with Bron, and we spent a colourful time looking at all the yarns that were there to be enjoyed. I have to say that I was rather blown away with the variety of natural fibres on show, and the Cornish wool on display was some of the best I have come across in a long time. It reminded me that Britain has been known across the world for the quality of our wool, along with our spinning, dying, and weaving. To be at a festival that showcased such high-quality produce from my neck of the woods was a total joy! It was creatively refreshing in many ways. 

As we sat and chatted to friends we had bumped into at the show, we sat outside with coffee and pastries whilst getting a few rows knitted up. We must have been there for an hour, enjoying the warmth of the sun as well as nattering about our projects, before heading back in.

I have wanted to meet Kerry from Ginger Pink Yarns for years, but at Unravel, there was never a chance as it was always so busy, but on Sunday I finally snagged my chance to say hello and introduce myself. I love her colour pallets and the depth that she creates by using natural plant dyes. My eyes were drawn to her BFL/Gotland base in 'Weld', a colour that I was still thinking of this morning as I was looking through my sweater collection; it really needs a pop of deep citron! Based in Frome, Sommerset, Kerry uses British wool as the base for her dyes, and the results are bouncy, smooth worsted skeins that are great for both shawls, sweaters, and accessories. I am very much looking forward to ordering a sweater quantity of her yarns just as soon as I get my mojo back. 

Kernow YAFF was a delight to attend, and as it was the smaller Spring Festival, I will be looking forward to seeing what the larger Autumn one has in store for us in September. However, the Spring show was great to meet new-to-me dyers, as there was enough space to chat with them, see their beautiful yarns and squish all the wool. I shall be following Bluebell Yarns with a keen interest, along with Rosie’s Moments, both of whom have stunning colours running through their yarns that offered a lot of creative thoughts for next Autumn’s wardrobe. (Dartmoor Wool Sheep also gave me food for thought for an Aran sweater from one of my brothers…!)

I am convinced that we only get the best out of our knitting when we knit together, and our community is a rich and thriving one. Connecting back in, meeting new friends, and knitting under the spring sun whilst nattering is better than any flu remedy known to human-kind, and I am so happy that I took a great big dose of it on Sunday. 

I ended the day on Polzeath beach, a place I have not visited for a couple of years, but one where I always feel connected with friends, no matter how many miles separate us. My Knitting Flu has downgraded to a version similar to a bad cold. I am not quite over it, but I am enjoying designing my own V-Neck slip-over. I am using my Camel’s Yarn Comfort DK, in the colour-way ‘Studio Door’. I have had it for ages now, and as I only have 4 skeins due to it being the end of a dye lot, I hadn’t really found a use for it until now. As I start to reemerge and enjoy the spring sunshine, I can sense my mind moving to search out the styles of the coming season; boho dresses, linens and colour. I am looking forward to it, and sharing it all with you.