Cloning My Clothes.

This is the (very worn-in) linen jacket that I wanted to remake!

As the summer roles in, my attention is drawn to my sewing projects, so when the idea of cloning my clothes came up my sewing machine gave me a nudge! Today, I wanted to share a joyful Saturday that allowed me to learn so much that will bless my wardrobe, as well as enjoy a lot of fun with friends.

I remember getting my first sewing machine when I was 8 years old at Christmas; a small singer that could go forward and backwards, as well as a wonderful zigzag stitch. Christmas day was spent going up and down lines that mum had drawn onto cotton, but by boxing day she had me perfecting circles, which I would appreciate later in life. My dolls wore scrappy patch clothes, and I learned how to do darts around my teddy, so that by the time I hit my teenage years I was happy to faff about and make my own clothes with a preference towards cotton and linen. 

Patterns do not frighten me, and I have drafted my own blocks, but I have never cloned a piece of clothing from a store to create a pattern from it so that I could make more versions. So when Helen from Dot.N.Cross mentioned she was popping a Saturday workshop on to teach the cloning technique, I jumped at it; the idea of being able to create the project I had been thinking of for about a year was in danger of actually happening! 

Check Out Helen's Website!

One of the last gifts mum had given me was a blue linen shirt jacket from Seasalt, and I have been wanting to re-make it and hack it into a shower-proof jacket. Naively, I had thought that cloning my clothes would mean that I had to unpick the original, meaning that I would be unable to wear it again. This was the main reason why I had steered clear of the practice, as I didn’t want to lose mum’s gift. When I mentioned this mental road block, the reaction was a giggle and a reassurance, making me feel a lot easier about embarking on the workshop. 

Jess had such a giggle with her gathered shirt

Last Saturday morning found myself, Laura (from Thread Pegs), and Jess (from Beyond Making) beetling down to Cast in Helston to meet two other makers for Helen’s class. It was fun to be with friends as we caught up and chatted about our ideas about our current sewing (and knitting) projects in the car before we got there. The clothes we had brought to clone were very different! Laura had brought along a swimsuit that had shorts attached to the waistline (with pockets!), and Jess had arrived with a hand made shirt from the 80’s; a cotton lawn with pale pink roses, balloon sleeves and a gathered back.

Helen has been a pattern cutter for the big London fashion designers, and has done her fair share of fashion weeks and seasons. Now she teaches classes and one-to-one tutorials, bringing an attention to detail and professionalism that is second to none, (as well as the best chocolate chip cookies). With five very different clothes being hauled out of bags around the workshop and being laid on the big cutting tables, Helen became very excited with how each item could teach us different skills about pattern cutting and dressmaking.

Pins, a pattern master, pins, a tracing wheel, and more pins!

The real trick with cloning patterns is pinning, pinning, and pinning some more, as well as finding your grainline. It surprised me how long it took to make sure my jacket was pinned on to the pattern paper in a way that I could trust before I marked it all out. For parts of the pattern that I couldn’t halve accurately down the centre, I had to find the grainline and pin that to a line of dots on the paper, from that point I could anchor the rest of the pattern down so that I could use the tracing wheel. This was especially needed for my saddle shoulder pieces, as well as my collar.

Pinning my saddle shoulder down after finding a grainline and anchoring the piece.

With each part of the patterns being drawn up, Helen would occasionally stop us to show how to make measurements for parts we couldn't unpick, which was great for the gathers at the back of Jess’s shirt. When it came to the overly stretched elastic on Laura’s swimsuit, a little bit of negative ease was popped into the equation. When it came to my split cuffs, we decided to trace the pattern as one sleeve piece, and then add the option for a split sleeve on the paper, so I could do either. 

After we had marked it all out, Helen taught us how to true-up our patterns to make sure that they all worked together. Personally, I love the ‘walking’ technique, where I could walk through my pattern piece by piece as I got a feel for the 3-D shapes and how I was going to end up constructing it. All I have to do is remember to add the seam allowance! 

Laura had a great time drafting her new swimsuit

I found the whole day eye opening, and although I have very few shop-made clothes now, I can see how my wardrobe will benefit in the future. Finding old dresses in the thrift shop that I like the style of, but don’t like the fabric, can now be taken home and cloned before being gifted or re-donated. Is that wasteful? I don’t think so in the grand scheme of things, as the amount of times it would happen is small. 

Apart from anything, it was a day of laughter, friendship, and memories, which is the best combination for any day! The lunch at Cast was absolutely delicious, and to spend time chatting to the other two makers who joined us was great; I learned a lot about reenactment costume making, which I have always admired, but have never known anyone to chat about it. I am so thankful to Helen for inviting us along, making space for us to learn more about the hobby we love which enables us to clothe our bodies, and for teaching us so well. I am very tempted to join her autumn course so that I can make my own Dress Block, as the one I have no longer works for my post 40 body. 

No doubt I shall be updating you with plans for my sewing wardrobe soon as we head into summer, and my jacket will be sure to get a lot of my attention!

Until then, may your needles always bring you joy, and your frogging be rare, 

Jenny and Finchley xx

Mr Finchley is enjoying the Cornish sun this month.